The importance of hydration, by Léa (R&D Assistant)

When we talk about “hydration,” are we referring to water or the skin barrier?

In R&D, we mostly think in terms of the skin barrier. Hydration depends as much on the amount of water available as on the skin’s ability to retain it. The key factor is TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss): when the barrier is weakened, water evaporates more quickly. So effective hydration relies on two mechanisms: maintaining an optimal level of moisture in the skin and strengthening the skin barrier to help limit water loss.

Why does skin become more dehydrated and reactive after an aesthetic procedure?

Because an aesthetic procedure causes a controlled disruption of the skin’s surface: the stratum corneum is temporarily less “sealed.” As a result, TEWL increases along with discomfort, and the skin becomes more sensitive to temperature changes, friction, or overly stimulating active ingredients. Post-procedure, our formulation priority is clear: soothe, repair, and reduce water loss.

What does the new REPAIR CREAM formula change, concretely?

We kept the core of the formula, with ingredients selected to strengthen the skin barrier, support repair, and maintain optimal hydration.
However, we reworked the base to improve naturalness and deliver a slightly more nourishing texture while preserving the light feel and non-greasy finish that define REPAIR CREAM.
As a result, the new formula is suitable both as a daily moisturizer and as a pre- and post-peel treatment.
Lastly, we added a new active ingredient (the SKIN RESET Complex) to provide a preventive soothing effect by reducing skin sensitivity.

How did ENEOMEY R&D come up with the SKIN RESET Complex?

Because it addresses a very real need: helping the skin return more quickly to a soothed, comfortable state after it has been stressed.

The SKIN RESET Complex was designed to act on three complementary pillars:

|Comfort / soothing (less redness, fewer sensations of sensitivity after the skin has been stressed, and reduced reactivity)
|Repair / regeneration (for weakened, fragile skin)

|Skin barrier strengthening (less water loss)

This is very much the Laboratoire ENEOMEY approach: delivering expert skin repair that restores comfort and resilience by supporting the skin’s natural biological regeneration mechanisms.

For context, SKIN RESET is a complex that notably combines wild acanthus, β-glucan, and allantoin.

Where does acanthus extract actually act?

On the quality of the skin barrier. Wild acanthus is associated with benefits for keratinocyte differentiation and the cohesion of the stratum corneum.

Put simply: it helps improve the organization of the stratum corneum, even after severe disruption. As a result, the skin surface is better structured, more even, more resilient, and better able to retain water. It’s a very valuable lever when the skin barrier has been compromised.

Wild acanthus also has a restorative action, with strong repair potential for damaged skin.

Why was β-glucan formulated in combination with wild acanthus?

β-glucan is widely used for skin repair and soothing because it fits perfectly into a “sensitized skin” approach: it helps support skin repair, calm discomfort, and improve overall tolerance. (In R&D, we like it because it often checks several boxes: efficacy, sensitive-skin compatibility, and versatility). β-glucan also provides a preventive action, thanks to its ability to reinforce the skin and make it less sensitive to external aggressors.

To target hydration itself, what levers did the R&D team focus on?

We worked on several levels:

|Water retention (attracting / holding onto water)
|Reducing TEWL (limiting evaporation)
|Optimizing natural moisturizing factors (NMF*, surface balance)

On the actives side, the hydrating complex combines niacinamide + hyaluronic acid + a blend of sugars. Hyaluronic acid helps maintain water at the surface, sugars support biomimetic hydration, and niacinamide is a true “barrier pillar” in formulation.

Hyaluronic acid helps keep water at the skin’s surface by forming a hygroscopic protective film. Niacinamide works deeper within the epidermis (it’s a real “barrier pillar” in formulation). Finally, sugars penetrate down to the upper dermis to support biomimetic hydration, acting like water reserves deeper within the skin.

*Natural Moisturizing Factors. These are hygroscopic compounds found in the stratum corneum that are responsible for surface hydration. They attract and bind water to the skin, helping maintain healthy, supple skin. NMF are essential to the skin barrier and play a key role in overall skin health.

Nourishing vs hydrating: why does the formula combine both?

Because sensitized skin often lacks both water and lipids. Without lipids, the skin barrier can no longer retain hydration effectively. That’s why we combine:

Shea Butter

Relipidizing, protective, immediate comfort.

Phytosqualane

Biomimetic thanks to a structure similar to the lipids naturally found in sebum, excellent “barrier support” ingredient with a non-greasy feel.

In formulation, the goal is to create a cocooning effect without excessive occlusion or a greasy finish, while ensuring optimal tolerance for reactive skin.

How did R&D determine the active ingredient concentrations?

R&D formulates actives at their effective concentrations, meaning levels for which both efficacy and tolerance have been demonstrated through in vitro and clinical studies:

Hydrating Complex

SKIN RESET
Complex

Shea Butter

Phytosqualane

This kind of balance is essential: we want a high-performance cream that still feels comfortable, pleasant, and easy to use every day, while remaining suitable for all skin types, including sensitized skin.

What evidence supports the hydration and TEWL claims?

We rely on instrumental measurements. The highlighted results show: +61% hydration at 2 hours, +38% at 4 hours, TEWL reduction of −13.2% after 28 days and −49% five days after a peel.
Results: fast hydration + a progressive improvement in barrier function, so the benefits go beyond simple immediate comfort.